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Anatomy of An Oliver Brown Suit

Anatomy of An Oliver Brown Suit


We believe that a suit is only as good as the foundations upon which it is constructed. That is why our suits are made from the highest quality British and Italian cloths available, sourced from some of the oldest continually-operating mills in the country, including Holland & Sherry, Dugdale Bros. & Co., and Loro Piana.

Using finely made cloth means that our suits will last for years to come and improve with wear, making them prized garments that will quickly become a favourite.

If we do not have a ready-to-wear suit in a cloth you prefer, our tailors can help you find your way through the thousands of cloths available for made-to-measure or Bespoke garments, a selection that is sure to please even the most discerning customer.


A weave is the way in which threads are fashioned together to make a type of cloth. While there are only a small number of weaves, there exists a range of techniques employed to give different properties to a cloth. We offer a various selection of styles suitable for each season and occasion. Learn about our standard weaves below:


A plain weave is the most basic type of weave. Each horizontal weft is interlaced with a vertical warp, forming its characteristic ‘basket’ weave.


A twill’s easily-recognisable diagonal appearance, known as a ‘twill line’, is created when the warp stretches over two or more weft threads.


This type of cloth can be made from multiple weaves. Although some flannels remain unbrushed, most undergo a process of brushing the cloth to raise fibres in a manner that forms a nap, giving it a particularly soft feel.


This weave forms a distinctive V-shaped pattern by reversing the direction of twill at regular intervals. Its name comes from the similarly pattered skeleton of a Herring fish.


Another variation of a twill weave where a 2-by-2 twill alternates light and dark threads in the warp and weft.


Birdseye cloth features a subtle diamond weave pattern, reminiscent of a bird’s eye. Often the cloth uses different coloured fibres in order to create added depth of texture.


Commonly mistaken for the simpler ‘Glen check’ or ‘Glenurquhart’ pattern, a Prince of Wales weave features a twill design of small and large checks, usually alternating in black and grey. The Price of Wales design differs from a plain Glen check with the addition of a coloured over-check, traditionally in a red or blue.


It is not only the cloth or the fit that dictates a suit’s style. We believe that the finishing details, from the choice of buttons to the quality of lining, are what make our suits stand out. Our ready-to-wear suits incorporate many of the finer details one would expect to find in bespoke suits. Features include, a half canvassed chest piece, four working button holes on the sleeve, a lapel button hole with flower loop, and a cotton curtained waistband on the trousers.


The design of our suits is based upon English heritage tailoring with a modern silhouette. In fact, our design centres around providing a flattering and well-fitted garment, and because all of our jackets (including evening wear) are cut from the same block, if you find one size that fits well, that all others across our range will as well. The classic fit of our suits means that they are tailored to the body while still allowing for a comfortable and full range of movement. The jacket has strong, closely fitting shoulders with a ‘waisted’ effect, meaning that the cloth is moulded over the shape of the back and natural waist. Our trousers have a medium rise so that they sit slightly above the hips and straight legs that hang elegantly with or without braces. If you visit us in the shop to buy an off the peg suit, you will be provided with a fitting from one of our experts who may suggest alterations to make.